The Leith Shore is an undeniably beautiful part of Edinburgh, rain or shine. A mixture of small cobbled streets alongside grand nineteenth century Grecian–esque sandstone pillared buildings, it’s a photographer’s dream and a haven for all foodies. Located only 2 miles from the city centre it boasts a veritable smorgasbord of coffee shops and eateries, has a rich and fascinating history and is easily accessible by public transport or via the Edinburgh Cycle Path.
In recent years the Leith Shore has become what some might describe as ‘hipster’ (or as much as you can be in Edinburgh…!) You’re likely to spend a good few hours here so I’ve popped 10 facts below that you can effortlessly drop into conversation whilst visiting with friends – perfecting the illusion that you knew all about Leith before it was cool…..You’re welcome!
*Leith only became part of Edinburgh in 1920. Despite 26,810 to 4,340 people voting against the merger it went ahead. 2020 will mark the centenary year of this particular union and there are rumours that another non-binding referendum might be carried out ‘for fun’…. Given the recent spate of referendums this may possibly be reviewed.
*Edinburgh and Leith have previously been at war with each other. Between 1571 and 1573 there were the ‘Wars Between Leith and Edinburgh’ where armed struggles broke out between the supporters of James VI and Mary Queen of Scots.
*Leith is the reason we have the Penguin Parade at Edinburgh Zoo. Whaling was a huge industry in Leith in the late 1800/early 1900’s. There are several noticeable references to this now controversial industry in Leith including the Christian Salvesen Harpoon Gun overlooking the dock. It was a whaling ship that first brought Penguins back to Edinburgh in the early C20th.
*Leith was the first area in Scotland to have electric trams. The current Edinburgh trams don’t go down to the Leith Shore but there are plans to develop this in the next few years. (Useful Tip: if you are visiting Edinburgh it’s best not to mention the trams to locals unless you want to cause a lively debate…it’s a particular sore spot.)
*The rules of Golf were first officially created on the Leith Links in 1744. However, King James IV is known to have been playing ‘Golfe’ in Leith as early as 1505.
*The Leith Shore is home to the Royal Yacht Britannia, attracting more than 300,000 visitors a year. Used for over 40 years as official transportation of Queen Elizabeth II the boat was also intended to safely house the Royal family in the event of a Nuclear War. Good to know.
*Leith has its own Musical. Leith is the setting of the outrageously cheesy and uplifting ‘Sunshine on Leith’, created by and featuring music of the Proclaimers. (I would walk 500 miles… etc, etc). It’s a proper sing along classic – there are always various productions of it available to watch during the Edinburgh Festival.
*During the August festival you can go on a Trainspotting Tour throughout Leith. Irvine Welsh, the author of Trainspotting and creator of the infamous Begbie and the ‘Choose Life’ speech was born in Leith in 1957. Many of his novels feature Leith.
*Leith Glassworks designed your Wine Bottle. Leith Glassworks used to produce over 1 million wine bottles a week for use across Europe. In the C18th Leith Glassworks (now renamed Edinburgh Crystal) were influential in creating and popularising the long necked wine bottle now commonly associated with wine.
*Leith had a very early and localised version of the NHS. From 1777 there was free at the point of delivery healthcare in Leith– local shops sponsored beds in the hospital and local taxes went towards funding treatment. Pioneering in its day.
Where to Eat and Drink…
It’s difficult to recommend just one culinary destination when visiting the Leith Shore because there are so many independent and brilliant places to choose from. We visit fairly regularly and keep discovering hidden gems. We’ve popped our current favourite places below.
William and Johnson’s
Personally, we always make a bee line for the converted warehouse William and Johnson, in Custom Lane. Although only founded in 2016 it’s already established itself as a ‘go to’ place on the Shore. They offer a broad selection of seasonal coffee, all roasted on site and you can pick your method of preparation and strength of coffee. There’s a laid back atmosphere with communal seating, an Art Gallery and a quirky gift shop.
Easily accessible with all mod cons – it’s a good spot off the beaten track.
You’re also able to buy beans to take away to prepare at home and they’ve recently introduced online ordering.
Ostara Cafe
For a light and infinitely instagram-able bite we’d recommend the Ostara Café…. a short walk from the shore with a cosy and welcoming atmosphere and incredible, I mean incredible (!) selection of locally sourced and perfectly presented food. Their menu is regularly updated and their lunch menu is definitely worth checking out.
Nobles Bar
We’d also recommend Nobles Bar if you’re in need of a post party fry up. Its sumptuous Victorian-esque décor with stained glass windows, high ceilings and quirky contemporary artwork creates a luxurious setting for a really tasty brunch.
If you’re feeling a bit indecisive there’s always the local Leith Market every Saturday, 10am-5pm in Dock Place where you can sample a wee bit of everything Leith has to offer – from the Bearded Barista to Kilted Doughnuts.
