Vast swathes of white sandy beaches, dramatic clifftops, networks of underground caves and sensational coffee stops – found right at the most Northingest-Northness of mainland North Scotland, Durness and the Smoo Cave is an absolute must visit on the North Coast 500 Route.
We approached Durness via the Assynt Coastal Route, a gorgeous drive, although decidedly not for the faint hearted – there are numerous tight squeezes and hairpin bends worthy of a car advert montage. There is a more direct dual lane route that we took on the way back, but I’d recommend doing both on your trip so you can revel in the variety of dramatic and romantic landscapes the Highlands have to offer. The Assynt Coastal Route winds past Clachtol, Culkein , Clashnessie and Drumbeg, past cloud topped mountains, cliff edge single roads, wide sweeping sandy bays and inland Lochs full of flowering lily pads.
We took our time travelling up to Durness, stopping regularly to snap some pictures, investigate waterfalls and laugh at some of the ill-shaven sheep flaunting their debonair signature styles. We also punctuated our trip with coffee and cake. (obviously!)
Smoo Cave
Smoo Cave, originally referred to as ‘The Hiding Place’ (Smuga) by the Norsemen is very, very cool. You should definitely make sure that you stop here.
A massive sea and fresh water cave, extending far under the Durness headland, Smoo Cave is intensely atmospheric, damp and theatrical. It’s an absolute must visit on the NC500 Route. It’s feels like a naturally evolving Cathedral, it’s ceiling reaching to the heavens despite being resolutely underground. You can attribute all sorts of other worldly vibes to it but it will also be a hit with any scientific types in your party.
During the summer months the local volunteer guides are happy to show you round (hardhat and life jackets required!) and the money they raise each summer season from leading tour groups goes towards funding their winter expeditions where they gradually excavate more of the cave. This means that each year you visit you’re likely to see and learn about parts of the cave you didn’t see before.
Nowadays the North Sea rarely reaches the cave itself but it’s thought that the cave roof once extended much further out, connecting the two looming cliffs that enclose the long narrow beach. The beach itself is one of those rare North West Highland treasure troves– a blanket of perfectly rounded and beautifully patterned stones. Swept ashore then repeatedly rolled and smoothed by waves for millennia, these stoney beaches are a Geologists dream. No two stones are alike and all of them are little pieces of history; their coloured lines and gradients testament to the innumerable changes they’ve witnessed over the centuries. Absolutely mind boggling.
There is something deeply humbling and soothing about holding a piece of millennial old stone in your hand.
Admittedly it’s not the comfiest beach to picnic on but definitely a space that captures the imagination and inspires all sorts of Pinterest related arts and crafts,
In the likely event that you’re not able to go on a tour straight away (…even the deserted wilderness of the Highlands can, in certain spots get quite busy at peak tourist times!) you can book a time slot to come back and in the meantime enjoy wandering around the hillsides via the network of crisscrossing rabbit and sheep paths. We had an hour to wait for our tour so ended up finding a perfect natural stone shelf overhanging the sea with panoramic views – a perfect spot to picnic whilst unwittingly catching some freckles! (Yep, you can get sun-burnt in Scotland!)
The tour itself is fantastic – leading you deep into the hillside past large echoey chambers, sink holes, waterfalls and internal Lochs. It’s beautiful, awe inspiring and eh, damp….give those open toed sandals a miss when visiting.
Accessibility to Smoo Cave
Smoo Cave is a short walk from the Smoo Carpark, about a mile from Durness. The entrance to the cave is via steep wooden staircases at either side. The staircases are well maintained and have adequate handrails but you’re definitely going to need a breather on the ascent. Thankfully the stairs can also act as impromptu benches.
If the stairs are too steep please rest assured the views from the Smoo Carpark are still phenomenal enough to warrant a visit. There are a few signposted view points with information about the area as well as a couple of local shops. Toilets are located at the car park and are accessible for all.
Worth noting that you can only pay by cash for a tour of the Smoo Cave.
A Tale of Two Beaches
Just along from the dark and mysterious stoney beach of Smoo Cave you come across the impossibly long stretches of white sandy beaches at Durness. Even on an overcast day they are breathtakingly beautiful. Perfectly positioned against the ancient cliffs and headlands covered in wild purple thistles they are the ultimate ‘#Holidaying in Heaven/# Blessed‘ Facebook post.
If you don’t fancy the steep climb down to the beaches you can always soak in the sights from the Sango Sands Viewpoint – a gorgeous clifftop veranda that offers sensational panoramic views. It feels a tad precarious but that just adds to its charm…!
Where to Eat?
Cocoa Mountain.
Wow. Just wow. Go there and thank me later. I can’t even.
Based in Balnakeil Craft Village, a couple of miles from the Smoo Cave, it’s an unusually modern looking glass fronted Café in the middle of a unique artistic village.
The hot chocolates come in large huggable mugs, with melted chocolate drizzled over them, it’s without a moments hesitation the best hot chocolate I have ever had – Twice. Oh and their chocolate covered croissants….? In-saaane.
We went for the deal of the day and paired our hot chocolates with their bespoke and infinitely- instagrammable luxury chocolates. Again – just, wow. Offering a whole range of flavours, colours and patterns these wee treats are just the sugar hit you need to tackle the windswept cliffs and beaches of Durness.
Remember, you’re likely to have a fairly long drive back to wherever you are staying that night…so you’re as well to buy a bag of chocolates for the road! It would be rude not to.
Accessibility to Cocoa Mountain
Balnakeil Craft Village is well signposted and there is plenty of parking available. Cocoa Mountain is very accessible and quite a modern looking in contrast to the other traders in the village. It has plenty of space both inside and out for wheelchairs and accessible toilets. It also offers Wi-Fi….which trust me you’re going to want to use to upload your NC500 snaps onto Instagram!
